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What have been the standout items and labels for you this year, in terms of those that made a connection with your customers? Balenciaga and Gucci. Did I say them last year? [Laughs] They’re still at the top of their game in terms of how customers reacted to their collections. Obviously, this year we saw a lot of shifts because of creative directors leaving and arriving, so things could change in 2019, but these labels . . . they’re so true to their DNA. I talk a lot about the DNA of [Gucci and Balenciaga], and this is why: They speak to their fans and they make great fashion—they’re not trying to be all things to all people. Saint Laurent did well, too, particularly shoes and bags. Loewe performed well, as did Prada. All of these brands are true to their DNA, and they are very luxurious; with these names, it’s pretty much as high end as you can get.
Phil Oh “Frances McDormand in Valentino Spring 2018 Couture alongside designer Pierpaolo Piccioli: The biggest fashion moment at the Met Gala 2018.” What makes a great street style photo in 2018? Imperfection, according to Vogue’s globe-trotting photographer, Phil Oh. “My favorites are the photos that capture a bit of real life in the background,” he says. “Tourists, businessmen, bike messengers, moms and their kids. It pierces the veil between fashion and reality, just for a little bit.” That sense of immediacy and access is what makes street style a serious business—one that legitimately changed the way we dress and, in many cases, they way designers design. This year, the medium was as prevalent as ever and became increasingly global. Vogue shot street style in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, but also in Seoul; Lagos, Nigeria; Tokyo; Tbilisi, Georgia; and Helsinki, Finland. And that’s just a fraction of the places we visited. To narrow down the year’s best looks from literally all over the world would require days of editing, and it might not even be the most representative list. We’d rather hear from someone who was on the ground and documented it firsthand—so we asked five of our street style photographers around the world to send us the photos they think best capture the year in street style. Oh’s picks included a major runway–to–red carpet moment; Gianluca Senese’s edit speaks to the year’s changing menswear landscape; Alex Finch highlighted fashion’s ability to translate a political message; and Style du Monde’s Acielle called out the new models who grabbed her attention. You’ll no doubt see them everywhere next year. Flip through all of their favorite photos, above, then revisit Vogue’s comprehensive street style coverage here. We’ll get our first batch of 2019 photos in about three weeks, once the London menswear shows kick off in January.
Last fall, J.Crew’s head stylist, Gayle Spannaus, predicted that rugby shirts were about to be big. It may have taken a year for the trend to really catch on, but Pre-Fall marks the rugby’s official comeback. It has shown up in collections as disparate as Alexander Wang and Kate Spade by Nicola Glass. Those two examples couldn’t be more different: At Wang, Vittoria Ceretti wore an oversize, asymmetrical rugby-striped polo with leather trousers, slicked-back hair, and chrome accessories, while Glass’s pink and green rugby dress had more of a ’60s country club air. Streetwear brands Noah and Aimé Leon Dore have been selling vaguely preppy rugby shirts for a few years now, too, but the WASP factor is usually toned down with sweatpants or jeans. Then there’s Christelle Kocher, who is known for tweaking rugby shirts and sports jerseys in her Koché collections. Today, she brought her Pre-Fall lineup to New York for a campy, Christmas-themed show at Planet Hollywood—yes, the one in Times Square!—complete with over-the-top decorations, a soundtrack with music from Home Alone and Frozen, and waiters rushing around with trays of burgers. Mixed in with the models’ feathered football scarves, logoed baseball jerseys, and sequined dresses was Kocher’s signature spliced-together rugby-striped dress, which she styled with Nike high socks and sandals to dial up the sportif vibe. How to figure out the cause and effect of this trend? Spannaus reasoned it could be an extension of the oversize, deconstructed shirting look of the past few years; remember when every girl was wearing a slashed men’s shirt or off-the-shoulder striped button-down? Or it could just come down to fashion’s ongoing obsession with nostalgia. Rugby shirts were big at J.Crew in the mid-’80s (the brand recently reissued its 1984 rugby shirt seam-for-seam), a decade fashion has been mining for the past few seasons. Usually, the ’80s references we see on the runway are more Studio 54 than Sag Harbor, but perhaps it was only a matter of time before the casual, sporty look of the era started creeping into the zeitgeist, too.
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