VenusMerch - Official Certified Racist Rei Ayanami T-shirts
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Lagerfeld began the Métiers d’Art concept in 2002 as a way to recognize the efforts of the ateliers acquired by Chanel through its Paraffection subsidiary. When founded in 1997, Paraffection had already acquired three artisanal maisons, starting with Desrues, their longtime button supplier, in 1985. Today, there are 26 maisons representing every conceivable fashion expertise, including gloves (Causse), millinery (Maison Michel), goldsmiths (Goossens), and cashmere (Barrie). Paraffection is an elision of par affection, or “with love,” and it’s clear this applies as much to the preservation of such rarefied know-how as to the workmanship itself. But the support also comes with commercial objectives, as several of the ateliers have an expanded retail presence independent of their contributions to Chanel. Earlier this year, construction began on a site in the Parisian suburb of Aubervilliers that, at nearly 275,000 square feet, will be large enough to house the entire Paraffection family. Designed by award-winning architect Rudy Ricciotti, the buildings will feature a striated concrete casing inspired by woven fabric.
Such a cool yet classical display of splendor could only have been dreamed up and executed by Karl Lagerfeld and the maison’s masterful ateliers. From scarab beetles to Ettore Sottsass; Memphis the ancient city to Memphis the design movement; hieroglyphs to graffiti; camellias to lotus flowers—all these cleverly related references were scattered across intricate embroideries on jackets, leather paneling, plissé soleil (literally, “sun-pleated”) skirts, belt buckles, jewelry, and heels encrusted with pearls. The gods are in the details, indeed. After the 2017 show in Hamburg, where Lagerfeld grew up, finding a destination that would offer meaningful inspiration must have been a challenge. But the Metropolitan Museum of Art proved a fitting backdrop for someone who recently commented that “nothing is more modern than antiquity.” Whether personal, historical, or cultural, Lagerfeld’s exploration of the past inevitably yields fertile ideas for these collections. And year after year, the artisans that occupy the workshops continue to translate each point of departure with creativity and savoir faire.
“One of life’s true warriors, her indomitable approach to her work, life, and causes is simply addictive and inspirational. Vivienne is never afraid to challenge and is lionhearted in everything she does. In today’s world she’s an essential part of the movement needed to question and effect change.” “Vivienne is an inspiration, a controversial creative who’s never shied away from doing what’s right. From designing as she wants to and living as she wants to, her nonconformist spirit is something we can all be inspired by.” At Maison Lesage, artistic director Hubert Barrère, a longtime embroidery expert, works with Virginie Viard, Chanel’s fashion studio director, to engage in a free association of references that ultimately inform the embroidery after receiving sketches from Lagerfeld. As the models of Chanel’s Métiers d’Art show filed around the Temple of Dendur attired in looks encoded with colorful graphic symbols, their silhouettes radiating glints of gold from all angles, it was clear that this was no ordinary ode to Egypt.
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